What makes the Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 so special?

What makes the Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 so special?

A combination of highly active ingredients including AHA, BHA, PHA exfoliating and purifying acids tone and balance skin's ph to promote clear skin and the renewal of the epidermis.

The Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 Toner is an iconic multi-purpose treatment that provides gentle and gradual exfoliation of the skin’s superficial layers. When used on a daily basis, it removes dead cells and impurities while rebalancing the pH on the skin’s surface to improve epidermal strength and quality. Enriched with sebum-regulating active ingredients, it helps regulate sebaceous secretions on the skin’s surface, leaving it perfectly purified. It is therefore suitable for seborrheic and/or keratinized Skin Instants©.

The unique P50 formula is a combination of highly active ingredients that provides exfoliation, purification and balances the ph of the epidermis. Read below for the specific ingredients.

Exfoliating Ingredients (All Formulas)

Citric, Lactic and Malic Acids (AHA)

Alpha Hydroxy Acids are a category of acids derived from fruit or milk sugars. They stimulate the desquamation process of the corneocytes, which are found at the surface of the stratum corneum, and stimulate cellular renewal. In relatively low concentrations, Alpha Hydroxy Acids are recognized for having moisturizing effects on the skin as they stimulate the production of amino acids during the corneocyte desquamation phase. In higher concentrations, they have keratolytic effects and help exfoliate and smooth the skin or scalp.

Salicylic Acid (BHA)

Salicylic Acid is a BHA naturally synthesized by certain plants such as the willow. It is a keratolytic agent that helps eliminate dead cells by breaking bonds between horny layer cells in the epidermis and by causing these cells to be superficially exfoliated without leaving cell waste. The skin is smoother and softer. Salicylic acid also has purifying properties to smooth imperfections and blackheads. Its antioxidant property enables it to protect skin from external damage.

Gluconolactone (PHA)

PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are less irritating than AHAs (alpha hydroxy acid). They are exfoliants that gently remove dead cells from the skin’s surface. Acidifying the horny layer improves its homeostasis, integrity and cohesion while strengthening its barrier function. This makes the skin more resistant to harsh external factors. Gluconolactone also has antioxidant properties.

Cider Vinegar

This extract is obtained from fermented apples which have been transformed into vinegar. It has high concentrations of fruit acids, which have a variety of actions: - acetic acid, a powerful exfoliant, helps purify an oily skin or scalp. It is used in purifying and astringent products. - citric and malic acids, which promote the desquamation process and improve cellular renewal. They are used in regenerating products. Moreover, thanks to its high concentrations of polyphenols, cider vinegar has significant antioxidant effects, which protect the skin and hair from the damaging effects of photo-induced free radicals. Lastly, vinegar helps restore the hair’s natural shine.


Sulfur is an element found in many minerals in the form of sulfide and sulfate, particularly in volcanic regions. It has keratolytic action that helps eliminate the superficial layers of the epidermis. It is also indicated in certain conditions such as some forms of acne or seborrheic dermatitis.

Phytic Acid

Phytic acid is a natural rice derivative. Phytic acid can fix ions, notably calcium ions. A protein called cadherin is located in the stratum corneum, playing an important role in corneocyte cohesion. This protein’s functionality depends on calcium ions. Through its properties, phytic acid is able to deprive cadherins of calcium ions. The latter lose their functionality and adhesion to corneocytes is no longer ensured. Therefore, it has a keratolytic action and helps promote cellular renewal. In addition to being an exfoliant for the epidermis, this active ingredient is also used to even out the complexion. Finally, its very low pH makes it a true acidity booster.

Purifying Ingredients (All Formulas)

Magnesium Chloride

Magnesium chloride has an astringent effect on the skin. It also promotes skin regeneration by increasing the proliferation of keratinocytes and the amount of collagen and elastic fiber in the dermis. In addition, it boosts skin hydration, repairing the skin barrier and reducing any surface roughness. Last but not least, its antioxidant properties help reduce oxidative stress.

Horseradish Extract

A perennial plant native to Eastern Europe, horseradish is grown for its roots. Horseradish roots are rich in flavonoids, coumarins and phenols. In the cosmetic industry, they are valued for their purifying and anti-bacterial properties.

Vitamin B3

Vitamin B3 (or PP) is a water soluble vitamin belonging to the vitamin B group. It participates in numerous chemical reactions. It stimulates cellular renewal and the synthesis of keratin to improve the signs of aging. Besides, it has a stabilizing effect on the epidermal barrier: it reduces insensible water loss and increases the hydration rate in the corneal layer. Its antioxydant properties also protect the skin from photoaging. Lastly, it has anti-inflammatory properties to soothe skin issues such as acne, psoriasis, eczema and rosacea. Moreover, by regulating hyperseborrhea and thanks to its bactericidal property, it is used in purifying cares for oily skins and scalps.

Burdock Extract

Extract of burdock comes from the long leaves of this herbaceous plant and is used in the cosmetics industry for its beneficial effect on oily skin. Its antibacterial and antioxidant properties help to cleanse and protect the skin. In addition, its softening, healing properties help to repair or soothe dry, irritated skin. Complex based on Myrrh, Myrtle and Onion Myrrh is the resin produced by the balsam tree native to North Africa, which belongs to the Burseraceae family. Myrtle is a shrub native to the Mediterranean Basin. Onion is native to the Middle East. This complex of active ingredients has soothing, purifying, antioxidant and astringent properties.

Sebum Regulating Ingredients (Lotion P50)

Sorrel Extract

Sorrel is an herbaceous plant native to North America. Its high tannin content means it has astringent properties, regulating sebum secretion and promoting tissue regeneration, coupled with antimicrobial properties, which purify the skin and exert an antiseptic activity. Its antioxidant effects also help protect the skin from the oxidative stress that causes premature skin-aging. Lastly, as it is rich in vitamin C, this extract inhibits tyrosinase, thereby brightening the complexion.

Thyme Essential Oil

The essential oil is extracted from flowering thyme stems using steam distillation. Thanks to its stimulating and toning properties, it restores energy to the body. It also has antiseptic, cleansing and disinfecting properties to purify the skin. Lastly, it has anti-inflammatory action.

Benefits of Lotion P50 Toners

Daily removal of dead cells and impurities ▪ Helps regulate sebum secretion and purifies ▪ Promotes epidermis renewal ▪ Increases the resistance and quality of the epidermis. ▪ Moisturizes the upper layers of the epidermis thanks to its keratolytic action ▪ Balances pH on the skin’s surface ▪ Enhances the action of the products used after its application.

For more information or to schedule your Personalized Skincare Analysis & Consultation please call 212-988-7816 or visit www.paullabrecque.com to schedule.

Shop all the Lotion P50 formulations and the full Biologique Recherche Skin, Hair and Body collections at www.paullabrecque.com.

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